Mexican food has changed significantly since the sixteenth century, of course. With the Spanish came wheat, pork, beef, chicken, and the first dairy products. They also brought the technique of rendering fat, which yielded lard and the concept of frying. The Mexicans enthusiastically incorporated frying into their cuisine and used the lard to make their tamales much lighter in texture - and much higher in cholesterol.

The specialties predominant in American-style Mexican restaurants, such as burritos, deep-fried tacos, and flautas, are what is known throughout Mexico as "northern cuisine." It is the northernmost region of Mexico bordering the United States in which flour tortillas, beef, cheese, and other less refined flavors took their strongest hold. But this is just a tiny aspect of Mexican food and its exciting array of ingredients.

Get Flavor, Not Fat

The flavors in Mexican dishes do not range simply from mild to spicy. They are far more sophisticated, incorporating the smoky earthiness of rich moles and the bright freshness of citrusy marinades. Tangy flavors of lime, tamarind, and vinegar; spices such as cloves, cinnamon, and cumin; and herbs such as epazote, oregano, and fresh coriander (cilantro) give Mexican food its varied and seductive flavor.