How Healthy is Mexican Food?

One of my first jobs was as a waitress at an El Torito Restaurant. To this day, I can tally its seven flavors of margaritas at breakneck speed. I used to think that made me an expert on Mexican food. In reality, I only knew about heavy trays laden with cheesy burritos, overstuffed chimichangas, and obscene portions of nachos.

Is Mexican food healthy? Apparently not. The Center for Science in the Public Interest's highly publicized 1995 report on Mexican food told us that it's loaded with fat and sodium. But exactly what "Mexican food" was the CSPI discussing? The report focused on popular American restaurant chains such as Chi-Chi's and my old friend El Torito, and not on the food of Mexico, which is an exquisite and varied cuisine full of high-fiber complex carbohydrates, vegetables, and pungent fresh flavors. Indeed, it's a well-rounded cuisine with all the makings of a healthy diet.

So it seems that there are two "Mexican foods": the traditional cuisine that's low in fat and rich in nutrients, and the Americanized version. Believe it or not, the latter can easily be made lighter and more nutritious. On the following pages, I'll introduce you to both types of cuisine, and show you how the elegant flavors of Mexican cooking make up for all the fat we take away.

Spanish and Mexican Roots

When the conquistadors arrived in Mexico looking for black pepper and gold, they found the native Indians. They also found beans, corn, squash, tomatoes, avocado, peanuts, potatoes, and turkey - none of which Europe had ever seen. These ingredients made up the traditional diet of the Aztecs, which was very low in cholesterol and high in nutrients.

Mexican food has changed significantly since the sixteenth century, of course. With the Spanish came wheat, pork, beef, chicken, and the first dairy products. They also brought the technique of rendering fat, which yielded lard and the concept of frying. The Mexicans enthusiastically incorporated frying into their cuisine and used the lard to make their tamales much lighter in texture - and much higher in cholesterol.

The specialties predominant in American-style Mexican restaurants, such as burritos, deep-fried tacos, and flautas, are what is known throughout Mexico as "northern cuisine." It is the northernmost region of Mexico bordering the United States in which flour tortillas, beef, cheese, and other less refined flavors took their strongest hold. But this is just a tiny aspect of Mexican food and its exciting array of ingredients.

Get Flavor, Not Fat

It's not the cheese but the flavor that makes Mexican food so popular. Americans love the spicy tomato sauces and salsas that are supplied at their favorite chains. But the combination of tomatoes, jalapeños, and onions is just a fraction of the brilliant array of Mexican ingredients.

The flavors in Mexican dishes do not range simply from mild to spicy. They are far more sophisticated, incorporating the smoky earthiness of rich moles and the bright freshness of citrusy marinades. Tangy flavors of lime, tamarind, and vinegar; spices such as cloves, cinnamon, and cumin; and herbs such as epazote, oregano, and fresh coriander (cilantro) give Mexican food its varied and seductive flavor.

Chiles, the cornerstone of Mexican cuisine, exist in hundreds of varieties, from the gentlest Anaheim peppers to the boldest habanero. They are green, red, or brown; fresh, dried, or pickled; mild, biting, or fiery. And they abound in almost every dish.

As I always say, an abundance of flavor is the best instrument for a healthy cook. With so much satisfying flavor, no one misses the fat.

How Healthy Is It?

Dishes based on fresh ingredients such as vegetables, fish, and fruit, are naturally healthy. The ingredients that make up the Mexican cook's palate are some of the richest in antioxidant vitamins A, C, and E, and in cholesterol-free protein.

The cuisine includes a variety of beans, which are rich in protein and fiber. Corn, when combined with beans or prepared as masa for tortillas, becomes an excellent source of protein and other nutrients. Tomatoes are a superb source of vitamins C and A. Varieties of squash, such as pumpkin, provide abundant vitamin A or beta carotene. Avocados and the seeds and nuts that make up the traditional moles are the best sources of vitamin E. And there's more to the chile than heat: Chiles are some of the best sources of vitamins A and C.

Salsa is all vegetables and flavor, and nothing could be better. Feel free to dip your chips in any tomato salsa, commercial or homemade. Who says Mexican food isn't healthy?

Why Fry?

When the Spanish arrived in Mexico, native Mexicans were eating flat cakes of cornmeal, which the Spanish named "tortillas" ("little cakes" in translation). With the introduction of frying came enchiladas, traditionally made by frying the tortilla before adding the filling, and tostadas, the precursor to our crisp tortilla chips.

Most true Mexican tortilla preparation involves steaming or grilling until the tortillas are soft and pliable. I prefer this lower-fat technique to frying. To make tortillas warm and soft (to use for soft tacos, enchiladas, or burritos), wrap 5 or 6 of them in aluminum foil and warm in a 325 degree oven for 10 to 12 minutes until just soft. Be careful not to over-steam them.

For tortilla chips or tostadas, crisp corn tortillas instead of deep-frying by brushing them with a little oil and sprinkling them with salt and spices and placing them in a 350 degree oven, turning until crisp, about 8 to 10 minutes. While they're not quite like fried tortillas, they have a nice crunch and are perfect for dipping and snacking. Or try some of the fat-free tortilla chips that are available in the supermarket -- some of them are great.

Your Favorite Mexican Meals Get a Healthy Makeovers

While I encourage you to try some of the healthy options I've just described, I don't expect you to eliminate burritos and enchiladas from your life. Thankfully, there's no reason that you should, since they can be made healthy by using the techniques I refer to again and again - reducing the amount of meat and cheese, increasing the amount of vegetables, and replacing fat with flavor.

I've been asked by readers to do healthy makeovers on a number of Mexican recipes. Check out my Chicken and Veggie Enchiladas, and be sure to compare them to a traditional enchilada recipe. The classic has almost 200 more calories per serving and about three times the fat! I've also developed a wonderful guacamole recipe, full of flavor - and a lot less fat than you might expect. And to give you an example of an authentic Mexican fish dish that's traditionally healthy, I offer a delicious recipe for Ceviche.

Another popular dish I've been asked by several readers to lighten is the chimichanga - that fried, overstuffed egg roll monstrosity that seems to be loosely based on a much more delicate Mexican preparation. The chimichanga is really nothing more than a deep-fried burrito. To make it healthy I would simply take out the frying step, add as much vegetable as possible, and use lean meat. If it's crunch you're craving, add some crispy lettuce or jícama to the filling.

Remember: When it comes to Mexican food, break free from the chains and enjoy the new flavor.